bad_LT said:

I rotate magazines and clean my weapons...... Every friday

Since I go to the range (private) every week end, I don't have to worry about problems. My toys get a thruogh cleaning on a weekly basis..

Chris_Cosgriff said:

bad_LT said:

I rotate magazines and clean my weapons...... Every friday

When rotating magazines, do you also remove the rounds to give the magazine spring a "break"? I've heard opposing opinions on how magazine springs hold up after being compressed for a long period. Does anyone have any first hand experience on jams or malfunctions due to springs losing their strength?

Anyone that doesn't clean their firearm properly is a fool looking to get killed. I have found the BoreSnake to be the finest tool for keeping your firearm clean, bar none. Project BoreSnake provides our fighting men and women with the proper firearm cleaning tools necessary to keep them safe in harsh combat conditions.

Good stuff,like the teamwork around here,lets continue to stay safe out there guys and gals!

Hi guys, I'm new to "PoliceLink" and thought that this was an interesting topic. I ran the range for several years in the PD from where I retired, and just wanted to share a little "food for thought". As far as lubrication, a little goes a long way.

There was a guy on our PD who at one time used so much oil in his weapon that you could probably change the oil in your car with it. Keeping that in mind, he had unloaded his weapon every day and continuously rotated the same two rounds (you can only imagine what those two rounds looked like). Now, seeing how the majority of the time, the weapon is holstered, muzzle down, all this excess oil had actually seeped down through the breech face, onto the primers of the said two rounds. This, in fact, had killed the primers. When he came down to the range for qualification, his first two rounds did not fire. Had he been involved in a situation on the street, well.......... we can only imagine what could have happened.

Just had to share this one.

I just wear mine in the shower....the detatchable shower head is great for getting the dust, dirt, and built up residues off the weapon and out of those hard to reach areas. A quick scrub down with gel or shampoo should occur immediately after the wash down, Pat dry with a soft towel, then dip immediately in the oil reclaimed from yesterday's truck oil change......WALL-lie....you have saved time  - money - preserved a little water in the process and successfully completed a bonafide REDNECK gun cleaning......now get crackin - no excuses for dirty weapons or B.O.

Bubba223 says ...

Keeping that in mind, he had unloaded his weapon every day and continuously rotated the same two rounds (you can only imagine what those two rounds looked like).

 

 

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That reminds me why I  basically keep my weapon charged 24/7, not just so I have my piece ready to defend myself 'round the clock, but also so I don't have to worry about messing up the seating of the cartridge from those repeated re-chamberings.

 

As far as "killing" one's primers is concerned, several years back, Massad Ayoob shared the story of this one deputy who decided to clean his revolver with WD-40.  The problem: the genius sprayed the WD-40 on his LOADED revolver cylinder and "killed" all his primers. 

Sure enough, one night the deputy had an encounter with a knife-wielding suspect.  In Ayoob's words: "The deputy's gun went, 'Click, click, click.'  His opponent's knife went 'Slice, slice, slice.'"

 

 

 

 

 

GregoryCarlSchuster says ...

My Dad had/has a SIG 220 in .45 ACP that he shot US surplus ammo from "1942" he then put it away. I found it and cheched the barrel.....disaster. It took me a while to get the rust out, but I only treated th problem. It's now pitted all over on the inside, and lavender rust still grows in there from time to time. My father and I take those little 'Silica Gel' packets that come in the box with a new pair of shoes or in a bag of Jerkey, and toss them into our Bull Dog Safe. I put them in my Cabinet, and ammo cans. I took one from a jerkey packet and put it into the pistol case with the 220 and I hope that will keep the rust at bey for longer. Every few times I take it out to play with I take the barrel out and scrub the crap out of it. My Dad didn't even know how to field strip it. Idk if how ofter he cleans his guns. I imagine that when he give me my share of the collection that I'll have alot of work to do. He did the same with a repro 1858 Remington after a reenactment. My Brother (fschuster) and I could "barrely" see through the barrel. We cleaned it, but that one is still pitted to hell. I guess you could see that my Dad is more into the reloading, hunting, and amuntion research aspect of firearms. He also collects old military rifles, he has his C&R lisence (collectors and relics).

I'd replace that barrel & probably the slide spring too. Could explode. Silica Paks work. Saw a guy coat an old Egyptian .43 rifle with Stove Paint once..you could stand it out in the rain till the barrel filled up!  Tried almost everything in rust prevention. My hands sweat & will "rust" a .45, even parkarized.  BEST product I found is made by Slick 50 Multi-purpose Lubericant, comes in a red full-size spray can with a black cap and used to be available at Advanced auto pts for about $3. Lasts forever.  Once you get a good old washcloth impregnated with that stuff, can wipe a gun down in seconds.  Whatever is in there, it actually works better than Breakfree, Ezox, Barstol Lube, 3-1 Oil, whatever.  I've even used carnaba car wax -works in rainy weather...LOL  Double coat things for storage & clean before use. TOOTHBRUSH is a good cleaner for breach-face & hard to reach areas. I have a $5 pistol kit (Walmart) that looks like a 4" gear shift knob 1" thick. The rods are inside and you can drop it in your pocket with a few pre-lubed patches in its screw tight compartment for emergency range cleaning. Anyone that uses metal clips they have to oil, BEWARE and actually make sure very light oiling. sometimes oil gets into the clip through the holes, clean it out. If it penetrates your ammo, it will fail...probably when needed most.  RUST: A #2 pencil eraser will remove dry rust spots, flip it over & lead the spot, then touch up with a PermaBlue pen & oil it back to life. Fastest thing on all metal guns I have found is brake cleaner-it rolls the dirt right out, along with all oil, so re-oil it well. Used this to remove the old cosmoline from packed SKS & AK type guns. The grease turnes to liquid and runs away. You should be able to spray it on your hand-make sure it evaporates, not leaving an oily  feeling.  Gun Scrubber too expensive. Also, any chrome finish on aluminum ex: Berretta CF92, Gun Scrubber or anything like it will dissolve that finish.  No go on any "plastic" guns either and will soften the slide rails causing slide breakage failure. My buddy who is a 1911 .45 nut always says he hates plastic guns, plastic snakes & plastic wemen...humm.. ALWAYS inspect slides and contact point rails for any cracks. S&W 5906, etc that have Aluminum alloy frames can fracture. Only use +P for duty, not practice. If the SPRING gets too weak from usage (replace every 5000-10000 rnds fired), it will not properly buffer that slide (slide buffers made of rubber help .45's) and can cause fracture from sheer force of cycling impacts.  Anyone who owns a .40 calibre please find a reloading manual and look at the cup pressure the round has & limits compared to .45 & 9mm. Always use "Good" factory ammo. If you reload, know that there is a "very slim" margin of error where it either won't cycle & bullet stoppage in barrel or too much powder (only a few grains!) and this gun will explode. They are dangerous. Higest pressure I've seen, near the breaking point of metal. Know a local LEO that has blown up 2 Glock 40's in his hands with hotloaded handloads.  The .40 is very touchy.  Personally I'll stick with 9mm/ 1911A1 .45/12guage.  The .357 sig in Glock is a cool round, but after watching people shoot it, wonder it you would ever get a fast follow-up shot since recoil seems horrible!  If you have a dremmel & rubber taper tipped bit with some jewelers rouge, polishing the "hood" or top of the inside of the barrel will prevent jams as bullet stikes here when stripped off the clip (after going up the feed ramp which you should polish to mirror consistancy), bounces down (polish that part too...just don't get into the ring where the bullet seat-stops at) and stops against that seating ring. When cleaning be careful not to damage and make sure if dropped gun, check the "crown" or end of the barrel where the bullet has last contact before exiting. If damaged, bullet will fly off in some other direction. Might miss by 4ft. Oh crap, no good!  The extractor: Check for any burrs & polish off (this can cause a jam too). The bottom of the "ejector port" where bullet comes out on .45 & most other guns can benefit from being polished. If a casing strikes it and it has a burr, it can ricochet back into the breach area and jam as the next round cycles. (Glocks pop out the top and a shell casing can actuall fall back down into it & jam. If advanceing foward, they fall down your neck (oh crap!) or if you're a lady, down the front...it can leave scar marks if not constantly moving.  Also, beware if shooting, using doorjam for hand rest, where do your casings fly out? ..if hit the doorjamb, can ricochet back into the gun & jam or if you have to turn it sideways or up, this can happen too. If the slide touches the doorframe, pole, windshield post, etc. it will stop the slide (failure to go into battery).  There's always some kind of tap, rack thing to clear this. Usually a half cycled shell is stuck at the bottom of the ramp and the expended case is gripped into the top of port. Smack the clip hard, jerking & flipping the slide (usually to right) (make sure that jammed round comes out (actually seen stuck so bad had to lock the slide open and reach over with other hand to pull it free). Releasing the slide, smacking the back of the slide to make sure "in battery" or fully closed.  Hand loaded ammo if not taper-crimped will sometimes fail to close as it is "fat" and won't go all the way in the barrel. Sometimes  the brass stretches and needs trimmed off- too long to close up.  Tap, Rack (sometimes twice), Flip, Smack.  Make sure you're still in a covered position or get to safety (shooting backwards to safe position until overwelming back-up brought to play).  Soldiers move forward, always moving, but hey, they're up-armoured on their bodies too!  Mostly it's a mental game. Play out all the scenaros, know what you will do, failure is not an option, never give up...you're going home at the end of the day and if the bad guy don't believe that, too bad for him, he should have thought it through.  Rick, TN

JUST CARRY A GLOCK AND YOU DONT HAVE TO CLEAN IT!!! JUST KIDDING, DONT GO GETTING YOUR PANTIES BUNCHED UP. I CLEAN MINE EVERY MONTH OR AS NEEDED.

huslmoc says ...

There are a lot of bore cleaners out there.  Can anyone suggest a good cleaner for a Glock?  Also, because of my schedule, i'm not always able to clean my guns right after getting home from the range.  How long can they sit before the time becomes a problem?  I usually try to get them cleaned within 24 hours.  I own other guns so I never have to rely on an uncleaned gun for protection.

Glock? Don't think you have a problem unless you're using some 3rd world country's corrosive ammunition. Depends on ammo used. It it's PMC that leaves huge hunks of junk in there, clean it. Sellier & Bellot, Winchester...except Remington-also dirty, you'll be ok unless you've fired 500-1000 rnds at once.  You should research what they have done with Glocks. They froze them, burried them, filled with sand, shook it out and fired it. Believe the 9mm can shoot underwater. Heard they had one at factory with over 500,000 rounds through it that's constantly kept shooting. I fired 4000+ through a police reconditioned G17 older model with 0 wear & 0 malfunctions.  Someone tied one to a bouy at a sea retreat for 2-3 months underwater...1 speck of rust...whoopee. Don't use Gun Scrubber as it could weaken the polymer plastic. Break Free or Slick 50 Multi-Lube if can find. Find a butt-plug to plug up that hole at the back...keeps debri out of your mainspring. Some have lanyard loops (cost $10). wipe out your magazines from dust too. I have a bottle of copper solvant that I just dunk the whole barrel into, flip over and dunk in the other side, wipe off and then clean it. Tooth brush works good for nooks & crannies.  When Knox County SO was first shown the Glock, thay laughed. Glock rep took a helicopter up (maybe 100-200ft) and dropped it out on concrete. Think the mag flew out. Who wants to shoot this? No response. Tied it to the car with a clothes hanger and dragged it to firing range 2+ miles away...with a police escort. Anyone wanna try... Hell no, it won't work.. it's coverd with dust, the sights are 1/2 worn away,  probably full of gravel and all kinds of things broke.  Rep put the clip in racked the slide, still smiling and shot the center out of the target, clip after clip after clip. They transitioned to the Glock 17. Think the gun is mean, you should see their Glock knife with the big serrated back blade. They even have a shovel that's probably tough enough to dig out a tank.  Good luck, I tried to make mine fail. Sold it when the hi-cap mag price went to $100 each,  for $200 more than I paid for it. I'll probably get a G19 as next gun. Only 3 firearms I ever saw you could throw up and point shoot, dead on target. G19, Russian Makarov,  & CZ 52 (don't dry fire this one-break the firing pin).

Gunsmoke16 says ...

<snip>

I rotate out the ammo, especially the round I sometimes leave in the barrel because oil can leak through the firing pin hole, onto the primer and kill that round if carried verticle. Look for sealed primers when buying ammo. You could actually seal them yourself...ex: rainy work environment, boat patrollers, etc.  They make stuff for this that's like nail polish.   Moderators: EXCELLENT FORUM!!!!

Where do you get that primer seal? Sporting good stores/gun shops?

Gunsmoke16 says ...

almstevill_665 says ...

Gunsmoke16 says ...

<snip>

I rotate out the ammo, especially the round I sometimes leave in the barrel because oil can leak through the firing pin hole, onto the primer and kill that round if carried verticle. Look for sealed primers when buying ammo. You could actually seal them yourself...ex: rainy work environment, boat patrollers, etc.  They make stuff for this that's like nail polish.   Moderators: EXCELLENT FORUM!!!!

Where do you get that primer seal? Sporting good stores/gun shops?

Yes, anywhere you can buy reloading supplies should have it or be able to order it. Brownells probably does (man, they got everything...the catalog is pretty impressive. Glock owners-neat stuff here:  www.magills.com   &   www.glockstore.com  ask for a catalog. Magills used to sell bullet-proof clipboards and briefcase inserts, etc)  I just rotate the ammo and use the old clip ammo for target practice.  If you are reloading and want it sealed properly, work in a humid environment where moisture could seep into the ammo or any maratime duty (boat patrol, sea duty) and could risk falling into the water, I would want to know that the thing would fire if needed. 

ok thank you!

Ah hell, you mean we're supposed to clean them too???

GLOCK_45_4U says ...

Chris_Cosgriff says ...

bad_LT said:

I rotate magazines and clean my weapons...... Every friday

When rotating magazines, do you also remove the rounds to give the magazine spring a "break"? I've heard opposing opinions on how magazine springs hold up after being compressed for a long period. Does anyone have any first hand experience on jams or malfunctions due to springs losing their strength?

I HAVE THREE GLOCK 21 MAGS THAT I HAVE NEVER RELEASED THE TENSION ON UNLESS I WAS USING THEM TO FEED ROUNDS TO THE BEAST. I HAVE HAD THESE MAGAZINES LOADED TO THE GILLS SINCE I BOUGHT THEM IN '03. I HAVE YET TO HAVE A PROBLEM WITH EITHER OF THESE THREE MAGS IN ALMOST 5 YEARS!! I DONT CARRY THEM IN ANY OF MY GEAR BUT I DO USE THEM AT THE RANGE AND EVEN USE THEM TO QUALIFY WITH. YOU CANT BEAT THAT WITH A STICK!

Hey bro, are you using the standard-sized Glock 21 or the new SF version?  I recently bought the latter and I frickin' LOVE it!  I shot a perfect 500 with it at a recent GSSF match and plan to bring it to the Nevada Police & Fire Games in mid-August.